Does Bunnings cut wood to size NZ?

Many Bunnings stores offer a timber cutting service to help you get your wood home and get started on your project. Bunnings stores typically have two types of saws for timber cutting.

Docking saw – used to cut long lengths of timber down to size. The machine can cut across the length of timber at a 90-degree angle. Examples of products that can be cut on a docking saw include Pine framing, MDF mouldings, Pine mouldings, Tasmanian Oak mouldings, Merbau decking and Pine decking,

Panel saw – used to cut large sheet materials into smaller rectangular sections and pieces. The machine is capable of both horizontal and vertical cuts on most of our board products. Some examples of products that can be cut using a panel saw include Melamine, Plywood and MDF,

Bunnings stores may charge a small fee for timber cutting. The price is:

Timber docking – First two cuts are free, and 50 cents per additional cut Panels and sheeting – First cut is free and $1 per additional cut.

You can check whether the timber cutting service is available at a nearby store by visiting the Bunnings website. Here’s how:

Mobile device – Select your nearest store and then click on your store’s name on the top left of the screen. This will take you to your store’s information page, including details about what services they offer Desktop computer – Type the nearest store’s name in the change store drop-down and then click on store details. This will take you to your store’s information page, including details on what services they offer.

Due to the many variables associated with timber products, we can only cut products purchased from our stores. Visiting at a quieter time will ensure faster service. It’s best to avoid weekends and public holidays as many other D.I.Y. enthusiasts will also be looking to build their own projects.

How to use power saws How to cut a laminate benchtop How to cut a bamboo benchtop

We also offer a number of options to get your products home safely. You can use our free courtesy trailer for up to two hours. If you need more time you can also hire a trailer, a ute or a van to suit your needs. We also offer a comprehensive delivery service to assist you in getting your purchases home.

Is pine good for a table top?

Best Wood for Dining Tables – If you decide a solid-wood table is for you, then there’s plenty of different varieties to consider based on the overall look you’re trying to achieve. Oak Tables Oak is hard-wearing wood that is able to withstand constant use, and also has a timeless natural beauty that’s hard to replicate. Natural Oak Dining Table Close Up, Image by Grain and Frame Walnut Tables Walnut wood stands out for its darker and bold look, with shades varying from light brown to dark chocolate brown. Walnut is renowned for being hard and dense which makes them perfect for a dining table. American Walnut Dining Table Close Up, Image by Grain and Frame Pine Tables Pine is a slighter softer wood which is light in colour, with varying shades ranging from creamy white to yellow. Whilst Pine generally tends to be cheaper, it’s still hard-wearing and durable which makes it a great option for a dining table. Industrial Pine Dining Table Close Up, Image by Grain and Frame It’s important to note that any wood table will require maintenance to ensure it is kept in top condition. And like with any solid-wood table, moisture can wreak havoc so it’s important to clear up any spillages straight away and be sure to use coasters and placemats wherever possible.

What is a cheap hardwood for table top?

The Best Wood for a Table Top (How To Choose) When it comes to finding the perfect wood type for a dining room table top or other woodworking project it can be confusing. With so many different types of wood to choose from, it can be difficult to determine which wood species is best for your needs. Wood Table Top Bunnings The largest factor to consider when building your dining room table is your personal preference. When it comes to the appearance of your dining room table, there are many factors you need to consider when making your wood selection. Grain pattern and color, as well as the texture of the wood, are all important considerations.

You also need to take into account the natural beauty of the wood and the finish you want. The type of wood you choose will depend on the look you are trying to achieve. Hardwoods such as white oak, red oak, cherry, and walnut have a more pronounced grain pattern while others like poplar, birch, maple, and softwoods like pine do not.

The color of the wood will also vary depending on the species. Some woods like walnut are dark brown with a rich grain pattern, while others like birch are light in color with a more uniform grain. The finish you choose will also affect the appearance of the wood.

  • You do have the ability to apply wood stain to your tabletop but you still need to choose the best type of wood for your desired stain.
  • When selecting the best wood for a table top an important thing to consider is durability.
  • You’ll want a table that can withstand scratches, dents and other wear and tear over time.

If you take care of solid wood tables properly they can last a very long time. As a general rule of thumb when selecting the best wood, hardwoods will be more durable than softwoods and will last longer. Most hardwoods used in the United States for wooden table tops are white oak, red oak, hard maple, cherry, and walnut.

A popular softwood used in kitchen tables and coffee tables pine which is very cost effective but is suseptible to damage due to it being less durable. You can even dive a little deeper by comparing the hardness of each type of wood you are considering. The Janka hardness scale measures the hardness of different types of wood, with higher numbers indicating a harder or more durable wood.

The scale ranges from 0 (softest) to over 5000 (hardest). It is determined by determining the force required to embed a,444 inch steel ball into the wood to half its diameter. Most hardwoods fall between 1000 and 3000 on the Janka hardness scale. This makes them very durable and a good choice when looking for a table top.

  1. Softwoods on the other hand have a Janka hardness rating of under 1000, making them less durable but easier to work with.
  2. For instance, a softwood like pine would be less durable and more likely to dent with someone dropping a glass or plate on the wood table top than a kitchen table made from oak.
  3. But if your goal is a rustic look or a unique grain pattern in your woodworking than durability may not be an important factor.

When deciding on a choice of wood you may want to consider the cost of materials if you are on a budget or looking to save money. The type of wood you choose will impact your final cost of the woodworking project or dining room table your purchasing. The price of wood varies greatly from very inexpensive construction grade pine to high quality hardwoods like walnut, cherry, maple or oak.

For instance, walnut has a much higher cost compared to pine, but it has more value with a beautiful grain pattern and is a more durable wood than pine. Even though hardwood lumber costs more they are extremely tough and will last for years with minimal wear and tear and can be easily refinished. Additionally, hardwoods are easy to clean, resist scratches and dents making them a good choice for families with children or for resturant tables with heavy use.

If your looking for the best option on a budget you can’t beat pine wood for a rustic table. However when you are selecting the boards be very careful they are straight and not warped. Also pick out the boards with smooth grain patterns and minimal knots to give your dining space a modern look while still being rustic. Wood Table Top Bunnings If the cost of wood is not a big concern but your still looking for a cheap hardwood a popular choice is Oak. Red oak and white oak are great for small spaces and even a large dining area. Both red oak and white oak are hardwoods with high durability and are some of the cheapest hardwoods available.

Red oak as the name suggests has a bit of a red tint due to the tanins in the wood but is easily stainable to dark browns. White oak is more rot-resistant than red oak and would be perfect for restaurant tables or an outdoor dining area. Both woods are a good choice for wood table tops and allow the design of the furniture piece to stand out rather than the oak wood.

Oak is the perfect choice for a contemporary look while still saving money especially when you apply darker stains to the table. If money is not an important thing your considering in building or buying a dining room table or coffee table then a more exotic and smooth grain hardwood would be the best wood to choose.

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While being more expensive than most hardwoods walnut seems to be the most popular choice due to its beautiful grain pattern and smooth texture. Also, depending on the availablity of wood in your area you could find some with a very unique grain pattern. Building a walnut table will shift the focal point of the table to the natural beauty of the wood and not necessarily the clean lines or modern styles in the furniture.

By using a high quality or higher cost wood species you will be more likely to keep the table for a long time and your hard work will be enjoyed for years. Maintaining a wood table top is key for both longevity and appearance, but the type of wood make a difference.

By choosing a wood species with a smooth texture you can prevent any food or liquids from being lodged into the wood grain. For instance the wood grain of red oak has very open pores allowing crumbs or liquids to be trapped in the surface of the wood making it difficult to clean and maintain. You could however apply a finish that fills in the pores of the wood like polyurethane or another type of varnish but then the finish is suseptible to scratches and damage.

If you choose a wood species with a smooth grain and closed pores like maple or walnut you prevent alot of maintenance issues, but at an increased cost. Regardless of the wood type you choose avoid using harsh chemicals or cleaning products as they can damage the finish and the wood itself.

If a spill occurs, wipe it up immediately. If you regularly maintain a wood table top and use placemats and coasters if will last for many years and will continue looking great for a long time. Choosing a finish for a wood table top is important because it will protect the wood from damage and extend the life of the table.

I would argue that the choice of finish is a more important factor in a table than the wood itself. There are many different types of finishes available, each with its own benefits and drawbacks. Some finishes are more durable and repairable, while others may be more resistant to scratches and staining.

  • The most common finishes regardless of which type of wood you choose are varnishes, oils, and oil-wax finishes.
  • Varnishes are the most common finish used on table tops and last longer than other finishes, but they also tend to be more difficult to repair if damaged.
  • Oil finishes are also a populare choice which are absorbed into the wood and as it dries it forms a protective coating on the surface of the wood while hardening the wood fibers.

Oil finishes are very easy to refinish and repair as well as enhance the natural beauty of the wood, but they do require periodic maintenance to reapply. My new favorite type of finish is an oil-wax based finish like Osmo Poly-X or Rubio Monocoat. Oil-wax finishes are very easy to apply and provide a very good level of protection for a wood table top as well as being repairable. Wood Table Top Bunnings Hard maple wood is a moderately priced hardwood that is strong, dense and is a popular choice for use in furniture and flooring. Hard maple is a good choice if you are looking for a very uniform texture and grain pattern and good for large woodworking projects.

Does Bunnings sell timber offcuts?

DIGGERS 500ML LAVENDER MULTI-PURPOSE SURFACE CLEANER – My wife is fastidious about cleaning and, since we now live in our caravan, her attention is focused on keeping our van clean. If you think about the range of cleaning products you use at home and then try to store all those in your van, it would take up an inordinate amount of valuable storage space, not to mention all that extra weight.

  • Fortunately, help is at hand.
  • Ylie found this lavender-scented methylated spirits-based general cleaner and she swears by it.
  • We (good save, bloke) clean every single surface of the van with it.
  • It’s great for cleaning the mirror in the ensuite, the shower, the walls, the kitchen, basically everything inside the van.

It doesn’t leave any streaks and can remove most stains. About the only thing we don’t clean with it is the leather lounge. It’s available in a spray bottle as well as a convenient refill. Best of all, it’s bloody cheap. RRP $5.10 click here Wood Table Top Bunnings My wife reckons this stuff is pretty good WOOD BLOCKS They say you don’t get very much for nothing. Maybe, but if you head down to the building section of your local Bunnings, where they cut up timber for customers, you’ll likely find a pile of off-cuts which, if you ask nicely, they will let you have for nothing.

Find some blocks of treated pine. You’ll need maybe four or six pieces about 15-20cm long and of various thickness. The nice guy operating the saw may even cut up a few for you. These make excellent chocking blocks. I use them under the jockey wheel and the stabiliser legs. You can even level the van by driving one side of the van onto one of the blocks.

Being treated pine, they will survive a soaking or sitting in the mud for a few days. Best of all, if you forget to collect them before leaving for your next destination, who cares – just go back to Bunnings to get some more. RRP Free! Wood Table Top Bunnings Who knew a few blocks of wood could be so useful

Can you cut wood with a cut off tool?

Cut-Off Tool – A cutoff tool is a power tool to cut metal also used to cut various other materials that need additional force or accuracy. They are easily controlled with one hand and are available in corded and cordless versions. The “cutter,” or cutting accessory, is placed at a 90-degree angle to the driveshaft in a cutoff tool.

Can you just glue wood together?

Wood glue: Carpentry without nails or screws Selecting the right wood glue will help you create durable, lasting bonds. However, not all wood adhesives are suitable for all applications. Here’s what you need to know to choose the right glue and use it correctly.

Gluing is an essential part of working with wood. Create durable bonds with the right wood adhesives. Gluing is an important part of many wood-based projects. But determining the best wood glue for your particular task isn’t always easy. Here’s what you need to know to decide which wood glue will work best for your project.

Polyvinyl acetate (PVA) glue is the most common type of wood glue. This type includes typical white and yellow glues, or what are commonly called “carpenter’s glue.” Iit can be used for many – but not all – projects. Hide glue is made from animal products.

It can come as a liquid or as granules, flakes, or sheets that need to be dissolved in water. It needs to be heated and applied with a brush, and it bonds as it cools. Epoxy typically comes in two separate components: a hardener and a resin. The parts are mixed together to create a chemical bond that, when it hardens, is waterproof and fills gaps.

Some epoxies are slow to cure, but they are some of the strongest wood glues available. If you are looking for an epoxy that’s easy to apply and works great with wood, try or one of Loctite’s,

  • Polyurethane glues are a type of moisture-activated glue that foams as it dries into a very resilient adhesive.
  • For most wood-based projects, is a solid choice.
  • Watch this video and learn more about using Loctite PL Premium Construction Adhesive for all your wood-based tasks:

Polyvinyl acetate (PVA) glue is a synthetic adhesive and the most common type of wood glue. It is colorless and odorless. PVA glue sets best in areas with good air circulation and dries quickly at room temperature. Not all PVA glues are waterproof, so check your product’s instructions.

If you need a food-safe wood glue, check for products that are FDA-approved. Some wood glues, such as PVA glue and its residue, are not suitable for surfaces that contact food or drinks. PVA glues are great for use with porous substances such as wood. PVA wood adhesive is specially formulated to penetrate wood fibers, resulting in glue bonds that can be even stronger than the wood itself.

PVA glues create durable joints and keeps wood looking great. If you proceed carefully, select the right glues, and follow the correct drying procedures, gluing wood effectively can be a snap. Follow these simple steps for using PVA glue and other glues.

  1. Apply the glue to both surfaces of the wood to be bonded. Use a cloth to wipe away any spill or overflow immediately.
  2. Spread the wood glue into a thin, consistent coat using a brush or plastic spreader.
  3. Press the pieces together. You may want to shift the surfaces back and forth slightly to ensure an even coat and to release any air that may cause gaps.
  4. Use a G-clamp to secure the pieces.
  5. Let the glued pieces sit undisturbed for the recommended pressing time given by the product instructions.
  6. Sand off any dried excess glue.
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Clamp the pieces together for the recommended pressing time given by the product instructions. : Wood glue: Carpentry without nails or screws

What is the best thing to stick wood together?

PVA – Wood Table Top Bunnings PVA or Polyvinyl acetate is the wood glue that all carpenters have come to know and love. Commonly referred to as wood glue or white glue, PVA has set itself to be the best all-purpose wood glue on the market.

Is wood glue enough for table top?

It has been my training and experience that an appropriate wood glue creates a strong bond quite sufficient to join two boards edge to edge, provided the glue surfaces are flat, square, and smooth. Biscuits, dowels, etc. function more to assist in alignment than to add strength to the joint.

Is it hard to build a wood table?

Making your own table is a fun and easy DIY project, but it does require planning. Something like a DIY nightstand is slightly easier than building a dining table, so if you’re a beginner, consider starting small.

How hard is it to make a wooden table?

Download Article Download Article Making a table is a great entry level project for beginning woodworkers, but it can also be a complex project for more experienced carpenters. A basic table consists of a tabletop, legs, and aprons. With a few pieces of wood for these components, you can make a simple table that fits your needs.

  1. 1 View pictures of tables to figure out what kind of table to make. There are a lot of different types of tables in the world, so take some time to consider you want. Go online and look up images of tables, noting the style of each one. Also, get ideas from furniture catalogues and woodworking magazines.
    • Base your choice on your needs, such as what you want to use the table for and how much space you have available for it.
    • For instance, you may desire a large, rustic kitchen table. You might also make a short coffee table or an elegant bedroom end table.

    EXPERT TIP “If you’re a beginning carpenter, it’s easiest to start out making a coffee table or an end table.” Jeff Huynh Professional Handyman Jeff Huynh is the owner of Moseybolt, a full service solution in home services, renovations, and repair in the Greater Seattle area. He has over five years of handyman experience. He has a BS in Business Administration from the San Francisco State University and his Certificate in Industrial Electronics Technology from North Seattle College. Jeff Huynh Professional Handyman

  2. 2 Sketch out a rough design of your table on paper. Use a pencil and a ruler to create your ideal table. Don’t worry about the dimensions at first. Instead, think about how you want the finished table to look. Select what features you want, then settle on a size.
    • Once you have a rough design, pencil in the dimensions. Keep in mind that lumber sizes listed at stores are 1 ⁄ 2 in (1.3 cm) smaller than the actual lumber, so add an extra 1 ⁄ 2 in (1.3 cm) to all of your estimates.
    • Your dimensions will vary depending on the kind of table you construct. A dining table has different dimensions than a bedside table.


  3. 3 Estimate how much wood you will need. Break your table down into its basic components. The simplest table has a tabletop and legs connected by apron pieces. If you plan on adding extra features to your table, you will need to get lumber for those sections as well.
    • For example, try making a table with 3 2 in × 12 in (5.1 cm × 30.5 cm) tabletop boards cut 61 in (150 cm) long, 4 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) legs cut 28 1 ⁄ 2 in (72 cm) long, 2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) apron boards cut 18 3 ⁄ 4 in (48 cm) long, and 2 2 in × 12 in (5.1 cm × 30.5 cm) more apron boards cut 49 in (120 cm) long.
    • Get extra lumber or wood for any additional features you add to your table. For instance, you can add rails for extra stability or add boards to extend the tabletop.
  4. 4 Select an inexpensive but sturdy wood such as pine for a lasting table. Pine isn’t the toughest wood, but it is a beginner-friendly choice. You can still use it to create tables that last decades. Some common hardwoods, including maple and cherry, are also suitable choices for sturdy tables.
    • Look for other inexpensive types of wood. Construction-grade douglas fir can be used to make tables. Woods like poplar make for good furniture but are tougher to stain properly.
    • For outdoor projects, choose redwood, cypress, or a treated wood like pressure-treated pine.
  5. 5 Purchase the wood and have it cut. Once you know what you need, visit a home improvement store to purchase it. Most stores will cut the wood for you, so ask them to take care of it. Save yourself some work so you can begin constructing the table right away.
    • You can cut the wood yourself if you have a workbench, some clamps, and a circular saw or handsaw. Always wear polycarbonate safety glasses and a respirator mask when operating a saw.
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  1. 1 Lay the tabletop planks side by side on a flat surface. Try to pick a surface that is as flat as possible so your tabletop is even as well. Select a side on each board to serve as the top part of your table. Position each board so this side is facedown. Arrange the boards into the tabletop you sketched in your plan.
    • When making large tables, lay the boards on the floor. You may want to lay down a sheet or tarp first so that the wood doesn’t get scratched.
    • Planking is when you lay boards together. The easiest way to join the boards to the rest of the table this way is through tongue and groove planking, but you can also use a dowel to create a butt joint if you know how to do that.
    • Another way to make the tabletop is with a single sheet of wood. This can be a little more expensive and difficult due to the weight of the wood. To save money, consider using hardwood veneer construction plywood.
  2. 2 Drill pocket holes from the outer boards to the inner board. Drilling the holes before adding screws prevents the boards from cracking. To create the holes, measure along the sides of the center board. Mark it about every 7 in (18 cm). You will need to use a very long drill bit, about 3 in (7.6 cm) wide, called a pocket hole drill bit.
    • To make drilling easy, use a pocket hole jig, You set the jig’s depth, then use it to drill the perfect holes. It reduces the chances of drilling all the way through the wood.
    • You will have a much easier time securing the boards if you clamp them together first.
    • This isn’t the only way to connect boards. You can also assemble the legs and aprons first. Attach the boards directly to the aprons with pocket holes.
  3. 3 Attach the boards together with screws. Place 2 1 ⁄ 2 in (6.4 cm) pocket hole screws in each of the holes you drilled. Use a power drill to push the screws all the way into the pocket holes. They won’t cut into the wood, leaving you with a very secure tabletop.
  4. 4 Trace the position of the aprons on the table’s underside. The aprons attach to the tabletop and legs, preventing them from moving. From the edges of the tabletop, measure in about 1 in (2.5 cm). Then, draw a line in pencil to indicate where the aprons will connect to the tabletop.
    • Having the 1 in (2.5 cm) margin prevents the aprons from sticking out past the edge of the table. This leaves a little more leg room and makes your table look better overall.
    • If you haven’t cut the aprons yet, use the tabletop length and width measurements to create them.
  5. 5 Clamp and glue the aprons to the tabletop. Set the aprons down on the lines you traced. You will have 2 shorter aprons along the table’s width and 2 longer aprons for the table’s length. Spread a solid, even coating of wood glue underneath the aprons to secure them to the table. Clamp them in place overnight to ensure they stay attached.
    • You may attach these pieces permanently by screwing them to the tabletop. Use a pocket hole jig to secure the wood together with pocket screws.
    • You can also attach the legs to the table first then connect the aprons to the legs using pocket screws. You may then add corner braces to help hold the legs in place.
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  1. 1 Trim the legs to the size you need them to be. Attaching the legs is often the trickiest part when making the table. A bad leg can make the difference between a sturdy table and a wobbly one. Line the legs up next to each other. Start by measuring each leg, marking its length, and reducing it to the proper size with a saw.
    • Even if you got the wood cut at a store, it may be slightly uneven. You should check before attaching the legs to the table.
    • If you make your own wooden legs, cut the wood roughly with a circular saw or hacksaw. Then, clamp the legs together and cut them all to the same size.
  2. 2 Glue the legs to the apron joints. The legs need to be positioned where the aprons connect to one another. Spread wood glue on the underside of the table and the inside portion of the aprons. Then, stand a leg in each corner and clamp it in place.
    • Although you can wait for the glue to dry, this shouldn’t be necessary. Keep the legs clamped tightly to ensure they don’t come loose while you screw them in place.
  3. 3 Drill pilot holes into the aprons and legs. The screws need to be positioned where the center of each apron and leg meet. Work from outside the apron. Use a 1 ⁄ 4 in (0.64 cm) drill bit to drill straight into the leg. Repeat this with the apron on the other side of the leg. You should have 8 holes total when you’re done.
    • If you want rails on your table, the process is a little more complicated. You need to use a circular saw to create notches a little less than halfway through each leg. Each leg will need 2 notches, 1 on each side where the rails will attach.
  4. 4 Fasten the legs to the apron with fastening screws. Use a pair of 1 ⁄ 4 in (0.64 cm) lag screws for each leg. Attach the screws through the apron and into the leg. Use a ratchet to twist the screws into the table’s legs.
    • You should avoid trying to drill the lag screws in place. They can be very tough and may break.
    • Make sure the legs are level and at a right angle to the tabletop before screwing them in place.
  5. 5 Wait until any glue you used is fully dry. Read the manufacturer’s instructions on the wood glue to see how long you need to wait. If you let the table sit overnight, you can be sure the glue has dried. Usually you can flip it over sooner than this.
  6. 6 Turn the table over to see if it is stable. Carefully turn the table over. It can be very heavy! Stand it on a level floor and try to make it wobble. Wobbling is a sign that the legs aren’t as perfect as they can be. They may be uneven, so you will need to flip the table and cut them down to size.
    • While you can use a circular saw or hacksaw to even the legs, you may over cut them. Instead, smooth them out gradually using 80-grit sandpaper followed by 220-grit sandpaper.
    • The leg placement may also be a problem. Make sure the legs are flat against the table’s underside and aprons. Undo the screws if you need to reposition the legs.
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  1. 1 Sand the table down with 80-grit sandpaper. This is a coarse-grit sandpaper, so it will rough up your table. It’s okay, think of the completed table! Look closely at the table and notice its grain, or the lines in the wood. Go over the entire surface along the grain, including the table’s undersides and legs.
    • Use a belt sander to make the job easier. It likely will not leave any lasting marks as long as you pass over the table once.
    • Sanding and staining isn’t mandatory. If you like the wood’s finish, leave it alone. You may wish to apply only a sealant to protect it from moisture.
  2. 2 Use a 220-grit sandpaper to smooth out the table. Go over the table a second time with a fine-grit sandpaper. Make sure you work along the grain again. Lightly sand down any rough spots, preparing them to receive the stainer.
  3. 3 Wash off the table to remove debris. Now you have a lot of wood dust on the table along with the regular dust in your environment. Dampen a microfiber cloth or tack cloth in lukewarm water. Wipe down the entire table to remove the dust, then wait for the table to dry off.
    • You may want to vacuum the table first before wiping it off. Use a hose attachment to help remove more dust.
  4. 4 Apply a wood staining product with a brush or rag. Put on a pair of rubber gloves, open your stainer, and mix it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Then, dip a foam brush or rag into the stainer. Wipe it all the way along the table’s grain without stopping. Cover the entire table before wiping up excess stainer with a rag.
    • You have several stainer options. Oil-based stainers are penetrative and lasting. Water-based stainers are easy to apply and don’t absorb evenly. Gel stainers are thick add a lot of color.
    • To ensure the stain sets correctly, consider working on only 1 side of the table at a time.
  5. 5 Apply a second coating after the stain begins to dry. Let the stain dry overnight before attempting to add more. Chances are the stain will look a little dull and uneven at first. Stain the table again the same way you did before, then let it dry again. When you return, your table should be all set.
    • Wipe off excess stainer with a rag before it dries. This will ensure you get an even stain that won’t turn too dark.
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  • Look online for table plans. You can purchase and download plenty of different, detailed plans.
  • Customize your table! Not only can you use different woods, but you can use different materials. For example, make the legs out of pipes, make a metal table, or have a glass tabletop.
  • Always drill a pilot hole when screwing furniture together, especially on lumber 1 in (2.5 cm) or less thick, to avoid splitting it.

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  • Always wear safety gear when using tools. Use ear and eye protection. Wear a dust mask, but avoid long clothing that can get caught in a tool.
  • Staining products do produce fumes, so wear a respirator mask and keep your area well-ventilated.
  • Be careful with your tools! Drills and other tools can be dangerous when operated incorrectly.


  • 3 2 in × 12 in (5.1 cm × 30.5 cm) tabletop boards cut 61 in (150 cm) long
  • 4 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) legs cut 28 1 ⁄ 2 in (72 cm) long
  • 2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) apron boards cut 18 3 ⁄ 4 in (48 cm) long
  • 2 2 in × 12 in (5.1 cm × 30.5 cm) more apron boards cut 49 in (120 cm) long.
  • 2 1 ⁄ 2 in (6.4 cm) pocket hole screws
  • 1 ⁄ 4 in (0.64 cm) lag screws
  • Power drill
  • Power screwdriver
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Clamps
  • Wood glue
  • Pencil
  • Microfiber cloth
  • Circular saw
  • 80-grit sandpaper
  • 220-grit sandpaper
  • Stainer

Article Summary X To make a table, start by purchasing sheets of wood, like pine or poplar. Then, cut the wood to size and assemble the table top using tongue and groove planking, glue, and clamps. After you’ve assembled the top, screw or glue 4 strips of wood around the bottom of the table to make the under table.